Trip Home - Remembering the Blessings

We left our hotel in Jerusalem at 1:30am (ouch) and headed for the Tel Aviv airport. During the trip we prayed morning prayer together - our last time of prayer with the entire group. As we sat in the airports (Tel Aviv, Frankfurt & Dallas), on the planes and in the bus, we got to reminisce on the last 10 days and give thanks for the many blessings we received.

This picture was taken outside of the cave of the Annunciation after our first Mass.

Here we are all posing after Mass in the Church of the Transfiguration on Mt. Tabor.

Final Dinner

We left Ein Karem for a typical Israeli dinner in a Jewish neighborhood near our hotel. First comes the various salads including beets, hummus, cabbage, olives, eggplant, etc served with pita bread. Then came the fallafel and finally the meat - kabobs of chicken, beef and lamb (no pork of course!). For dessert, baklava.

Our tour guide, Dave, was joined by his wife and the director of Regina Tours, Benji. He encouraged us all to return and bring some friends. The group presented Deacon Jerry & his wife, Carole, with an olive wood carving of the Holy Family since this is the year of the family. There was much to be thankful for... but some people were anxious to start on the packing.

Ein Karem (Visitation & Birthplace of John the Baptist)

Ein Karem is just outside of Jerusalem - though it takes a while to get there in traffic - Mary probably didn't have much traffic as she traveled there on foot to visit her cousin, Elizabeth. Our first priority was the celebration of the Eucharist since they close at 5pm and we were arriving at 4:30. We celebrated our final Mass together quite quickly (25 min) but did not leave out the singing - which we were getting quite good at! After Mass we visited the cave of the Nativity of John the Baptist and looked out over the valley to view the Church of the Annunciation - perhaps we'll get to visit it on our next pilgrimage.

St. Peter Gallicantu

Our tour guide said we did not have much time for this visit - maybe 10 minutes but we ventured down the hill to the Church anyway. The lights were out in the cell where Jesus was imprisoned so we did not get to go down the steps for a visit. However, outside we were in the courtyard where St. Peter betrayed Jesus followed by the cockcrow (Denial of Peter - Lk 22:54-71). The steps that Jesus would have walked up as he was taken to prison were also visible amidst the ruins near the church.

Cenacle (w prayer for Holy Spirit)

This room, on the site of the original upper room, is very stark in decor. However, after reading scriptures pertaining to the Last Supper and Pentecost, we prayed divided into two groups and Fr. Brian and Deacon Jerry lead prayer over each person for a particular need. Many of us experienced the gift of tears during this prayer.

Dormition Church (Assumption of Mary)

This Church in one of the sites claimed to be that of Mary's Assumption into Heaven, or as they say in the East, her dormition, her falling asleep. The other site is near Ephesus. This statue is in the crypt of the main Church. We prayed here asking for Mary's intercession for us and we sang a marian hymn.

Armenian Quarter of the Old City

This picture is looking toward the Zion Gate, inside of which is the Armenian Quarter of the Old City. We met here after a free morning in which some of us rested, some packed, some shopped and some did the touring you see cataloged below. The Armenian Catholics are in union with the Latin or Roman Catholic Church. There are a few Latin Catholics in the Christian Quarter but in order to support our Armenian brethren, some of us shared a nice Armenian lunch.

Shroud of Turin Exhibit (Notre Dame Center)

After a good American style breakfast at the Notre Dame center, we visited the Shroud of Turin permanent exhibit which is housed there. It is a very professionally presented exhibit about the history of the shroud, its travels through Europe ending in Turin, questions about its authenticity and an examination of the image on the shroud. Some in our group were worn out with already busy morning but Fr. Eamon Kelly gave a great presentation almost 2 hours long and kept our interest perked. His presentation helped us delve deeper into the reality of what Jesus suffered, the incredible peace with which He offered Himself for us, and the reality of the Resurrection. For more on the shroud...
http://www.shroudforum.com/

St. Ann Church (5 Porticoes)

Sabbath Healing (Jn 5: 1-15) Now there is in Jerusalem at the Sheep (Gate) a pool called in Hebrew Bethesda, with five porticoes. In these lay a large number of ill, blind, lame, and crippled. One man was there who had been ill for thirty-eight years. When Jesus saw him lying there and knew that he had been ill for a long time, he said to him, "Do you want to be well?" The sick man answered him, "Sir, I have no one to put me into the pool when the water is stirred up; while I am on my way, someone else gets down there before me." Jesus said to him, "Rise, take up your mat, and walk." Immediately the man became well, took up his mat, and walked. Now that day was a Sabbath. So the Jews said to the man who was cured, "It is the Sabbath, and it is not lawful for you to carry your mat." He answered them, "The man who made me well told me, 'Take up your mat and walk.'" They asked him, "Who is the man who told you, 'Take it up and walk'?" The man who was healed did not know who it was, for Jesus had slipped away, since there was a crowd there. After this Jesus found him in the temple area and said to him, "Look, you are well; do not sin any more, so that nothing worse may happen to you." The man went and told the Jews that Jesus was the one who had made him well. Therefore, the Jews began to persecute Jesus because he did this on a Sabbath.

Temple Mount

The Dome of the Rock is built on the Temple Mount or Mount Moriah, the site of Abraham's almost sacrifice of Isaac, the site of Solomon's Temple and later Herod's Temple which was destroyed by the Romans in 70AD. The Dome of the Rock was erected between 685 and 691 CE. Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Malik ibn Marwan, who initiated construction of the Dome, hoped that it would “house the Muslims from cold and heat” and intended the building to serve as a shrine for pilgrims and not as a mosque for public worship. However, historians contend that the Caliph wished to create a structure which would compete with the existing buildings of other religions in the city.

Our tour guide noted that this is the 3rd holiest site for the Muslims because they believe this is where Mohammed ascended into heaven accompanied by the angel Gabriel. It is the holiest site for the Jews since this is where the Holy of Holies was, the dwelling of the Ark of the Covenant. The Jews do not walk on Temple Mount because they do not want to step on the place where God made His dwelling on Earth, the Holy of Holies.
Christians are allowed on Temple Mount through one entrance but are not allowed to go into the Mosque. The tension surrounding this site underscores the tension between these 3 major religions in this "City of Peace".

Mass at Calvary

A group of 17 of us got up for a 6:30am Mass at the Catholic Chapel which is next to Mount Calvary. It was early but it was an unforgettable experience. The Mosaic just above the Altar set the focus for the Mass. This is the moment when the sacrifice of Jesus, when He offered His life on the Cross for us, is made present to us again, for our salvation and that of the world.
In the background we could hear the organ playing and the Franciscan Friars chanting as they celebrated Mass at the Holy Sepulcher. Two Sisters of Charity joined us for Mass and didn't miss a beat - their presence with us made it even more notable.

Mass at St. Savior (visit w Franciscan Friars)

After traveling back to Jerusalem from the Dead Sea, we celebrated Mass at St. Savior where Fr. Brian reminded us of the need for fresh flowing water (Jesus) to give life. Then Fr. Athanasius McCora shared insights into the efforts of Christians, the crisis of leadership, and the financial struggles to keep Holy Places as churches rather than museums.

Dead Sea - floating

Dead Sea adventures began after a Mediterranean buffet lunch and shopping for mud, minerals, and creams that would make us more attractive. Many pilgrims ventured into the cool waters to feel the dark, slimy clay and experience free-floating in salty waters.

Qumran - Dead Sea Scrolls

Qumran, located on the northwestern shore of the Dead Sea became famous due to the Essenes Jewish sect (second century B.C.) who left in the caves a magnificent legacy that we now call the Dead Sea Scrolls. The first discovery began in 1947 when Bedouin shepherds found seven ancient scrolls.

Massada

We boarded the bus to the Dead Sea area of Israel. We recited morning prayer while we traveled and learned the history and terrain of the area. The plateau of Masada, a National Park, is located on the eastern fringe of the Judean Desert near the shore of the Dead Sea between En Gedi and Sodom. Its remote location and natural defenses transformed it into a fortress. King Herod (40-4BC) constructed palaces and fortifications as a desert retreat. In AD 66 the Zealots captured Masada from the Romans at the start of the First Jewish Revolt. Eventually the Romans besieged Masada with 15,000 men while the Jewish Zealots and families numbered 967. When the Romans breached the wall of the western mountainside, they found everyone dead, except for one woman and her children. All others chose death over defeat and dishonor. A potent symbol for the state and people of Israel, Israeli soldiers are sworn in here with the words, “Masada shall not fall again.” Although most visitors reach the mountain top by cable-car with magnificent views, two of our younger pilgrims chose to hike the Snake Path to the top in record time.

Holocaust Museum (Yad Vashem)

Shopping & Support of Holy Land Christians

There are about 15,000 Christians in Bethlehem and about 60,000 Muslims. There used to be more but many left due to persecution from the Muslims and the lack of jobs - which came as they were separated from Jerusalem with a wall. To enter Bethlehem we had to leave our bus and tour guide and get on another one with a Christian guide. This man shared a little about his life there, about how many families have left, but that he stayed with his family because he thought it was the right thing to do. He helped us along in our pilgrimage experience by getting us started when singing Christmas Carols and giving us a description of the sites from a perspective of living faith.
In the picture, Rami, a 22 year old, gave us a tour of his family's olive wood factory. Later we went to his uncle's store where we purchased many treasures.

Bethlehem - Church of the Nativity

This is the oldest church in the Holy Land since it was spared by the Muslims when they invaded in the 7th century. The Chapel is just above the cave where Jesus was born and placed in the manger. The tradition that the birth was in a cave is one of the oldest Christian traditions. Justin Martyr mentions it in the mid-2nd century, as does the Protoevangelium of James (also 2nd c.). Origen notes that the cave of Jesus' birth was pointed out in his day and no doubt this was the same place where the Byzantine church was erected. Bethlehem, The “House of Bread”, also known as Ephrath - means fruitful.

CHURCH OF NATIVITY - Built over the traditional birthplace of Jesus Christ. Manager Square, with its merchants of carved olive wood crèches and mother-of-pearl jewelry, stands in front of one of the most ancient churches of Christendom. It is in the charge of the Greek Orthodox. Centuries ago the spacious door was reduced to the small one of today so that one must bow low to enter the spot where God humbled himself to become man. It was done for a less spiritual reason: To prevent looting invaders from riding in on horseback. The interior of the church still contains elements from the fourth-century Church of St. Helena, such as the mosaic floor beneath the wooden doors of the present level. To the right of the Orthodox sanctuary a staircase descends to the cave of the Nativity. The Silver Star beneath the Greek altar proclaims in Latin the “Here the Word was made Flesh.” To the side are the Latin altars of the Manger and the Adoration by the Magi.

In the fourth century, the emperor Constantine ordered the construction of a magnificent basilica over the cave of Christ's birth. Its four rows of columns formed five aisles, at the eastern end of which was an octagonal structure above the site of the grotto. Destroyed in the sixth century, the church was rebuilt by the emperor Justinian. The structure of that church still stands, but only a few fragments of its magnificent mosaics and golden embellishments remain.

A stairway in the sanctuary descends to the Cave of the Nativity where a silver star, glistening with the reflection of scores of oil lamps, marks the spot honored as the birthplace of Jesus. The star is inscribed with the Latin words Hic De Virgine Maria Jesus Christus Natus Est (Here, of the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ was born). A few feet away is the altar honoring the Adoration of the Magi and the site of the manger where the infant Jesus lay. Surely the Son of God could have chosen whatever culture and economic strata he wanted to enter our world. We stand in wonder at the choice he made for himself, a choice that must have been for our benefit and our instruction. Since there was no place in the lodging for travelers, Mary and Joseph withdrew to a place where animals were kept, perhaps underneath or at the back of a house (Luke 2:7). The earliest tradition says the place of Jesus' birth was a cave, a natural place for keeping animals and their feed.

Church of the Nativity - St. Joseph Chapel

At the rear of the Church of the Nativity the staircase descends to other caves and chapels dedicated to the memory of the Holy Innocents, and St. Joseph, and to St. Jerome, who lived in his cave, studying and translating the Bible into Latin (known as the Vulgate). His statue is on a pedestal in the cloister in front of the church. Deacon Jerry (Jerome) Klement was rather excited about this and several times exclaimed, "Heronimus". This altar where we celebrated Mass is at the entrance to the cave where Jesus was born. Here is also the traditional place where the Angel appeared to Joseph telling him to take Mary and Jesus and flea to Egypt.

Bethlehem - Shepherd's Field

We visited the chapels in the caves where the shepherds would have kept their sheep safe and warm at night. Also, there is a chapel above the caves with glass circles in the ceiling to imitate the stars at night.

At the time of Jesus, shepherds were people of low esteem. They were poor nomads, often looked upon with suspicion, holding no social or religious sta¬tus in Israel. That they would be chosen as the first to hear the "good news of great joy" (verse 10) is surely an indication that God has "lifted up the lowly" (1:52). Jesus' birth among the poor anticipates his ministry to the poor and outcasts of Israel's society. He, whose birth was first announced to shepherd in the fields, will become the good shepherd of the sheep.

Holy Sepulchre & Holy Mass

We finally made it to the most Holy Place in Christian tradition, the location of the event on which our faith either stands or falls, Jesus' empty tomb. We had to wait a few minutes as the Franciscan Friars prayed this station of the cross and then were allowed to go into this chapel a few at a time. It was truly amazing to be here! After our visits we celebrated Mass in the "Crusaders Chapel" less than a stones throw away. And of course we celebrated Easter Mass with lots of Alleluias! What a celebration!
Protestants generally do not recognize this site as authentic. They have a place nearby which looks like what the tomb would have looked like, with the roll-away stone, etc. A little history will help explain why this no longer looks like the tomb of Jesus as we might imagine it.
With the Edict of Milan in 313 AD (end of Christian persecution in the Roman Empire), the Christians returned to Jerusalem and to the other holy sites. Emperor Constantine, son of St. Helena, built a complex including a Basilica to include Calvary and a rotunda over the Sepulcher. To do this, he leveled off the sides of Calvary so that it became a balcony. He also cleared the hill away from around the cave of the tomb.
614 AD Assyrians invaded Holy Land and destroyed the Holy Sepulcher.
628 AD, the Muslims conquered Jerusalem
1099 AD The Basilica, as it now stands, was completed by the Crusaders, incorporating elements of the previous Edifices.
1950s restoration began

Mount Golgotha (Calvary)

We arrived at the end of the Stations at Calvary. The Armenians were celebrating Christmas so we had to wait a little while until we could enter the Church which houses Calvary and the Holy Sepulcher. We first took a group picture and then entered. We walked up the steps and prayed the final station. Then as we were taking our turns to touch the stone where Jesus was crucified, we were asked to leave quickly because the Franciscans were about to come up as they were making the stations. So we did as told. However, when we got to the bottom we prayed the last station, the Resurrection. As we began to sing a friar approached us and told us not to sing. He shook his finger at Fr. Brian and told him that they had been celebrating the stations since the 14th century and we should respect them and be quiet. Then after the good scolding, he asked if there was a priest in our group named Fr. Brian, because he was looking for him. Fr. Brian said, "I am him." And all had a good chuckle!

Via Dolorosa

We walked the stations of the cross which are marked with metal Roman numerals on the walls as you walk along. We carried a cross as we walked and a different group carried the cross after each station. During our walk shop owners were beckoning us to their shops and a few even shared their disdain about the USA or our faith. However, it was amazing to see some passer-bys stop to kiss the cross as we walked along. They witnessed to our faith in a beautiful, quiet way.

Dead Sea Scroll Museum (Map of Jerusalem)

This museum does house an exhibit about the Dead Sea Scrolls. However, this miniature of Jerusalem at the time of Jesus must be the main attraction. We walked all around it as our tour guide explained all of the parts of the city. You'll just have to go there if you want a detailed explanation!

Western Wall (Wailing Wall)

Orthodox Jews come here to pray daily. Many recite prayers and psalms lamenting the destruction of the temple. Many people place prayer intentions written on small pieces of paper in the crevices. Pope John Paul II visited here and prayed which endeared many of the Jews to him and the Catholic Church.

At the Western Wall Plaza, the total height of the Wall from its foundation is estimated at 105 feet (32 m), with the exposed section standing approximately 62 feet high. The Wall consists of 45 stone courses, 28 of them above ground and 17 underground. The first seven visible layers are from the Herodian period. The original temple built by Solomon had 12 courses of stones for the twelve tribes of Israel.

Dominus Flevit

As we walked down the hill towards the Garden of Gethsemane, we passed an ancient Jewish cemetery that is still in use. Then we entered this chapel. It was built to recall the lament of Jesus over Jerusalem, the city of peace. Jesus loved this city and its temple as his own, but he knew that it was bringing destruction upon itself because of its refusal to listen and obey its God.

The chapel which was built in 1955 is shaped in the form of a tear, and from its interior window can be seen a wondrous view of the walled city and its temple mount. The first shrine with beautiful Christian symbols was shrine was built in the 5th century but it was destroyed in 614 A.D. Each of the gospels express Jesus' lament over the city differently.

In Matthew's gospel Jesus expresses the deep desire to enfold the city in his arms, "as a hen gathers her brood under her wings" (Matt 23:37). But "the city that kills the prophets and stones those who are sent to it" would not let him. In Mark's gospel, Jesus pauses to curse a fig tree, an Old Testament symbol of Israel, for its lack of fruit (Mark 11:13-14). Like the unproductive tree, Jerusalem would meet its fate because of its failure to bear fruit.

Chapel of the Ascension

Our first stop of the day was the Dome of the Ascension. This marks the traditional site where Jesus ascended into heaven. The biblical text is not clear as to where the Ascension took place (cf. Mt 28:16; Lk 24:50). The ascension of Jesus is commemorated at a circular shrine on the top of the Mount of Olives. There a rough piece of rock marks the place where an early tradition says that Jesus left this world to return to the Father. An earlier shrine of the fourth century consisted of a circular colon¬nade around the rock that was open to the sky. The distance between this shrine and the city of Jerusalem is "a Sabbath day's journey" (Acts 1:12), about half a mile, the maximum allowable distance a Jew could travel on the Sabbath. The Crusaders rebuilt the shrine. This shrine passed into the hands of Muslims in 1198.

Garden of Gethsemane

After our welcome to the city, we made our first pilgrim stop in Jerusalem, the Garden of Gethsemane. There are olive trees there estimated to be about 1000 years old but whose roots are likely those of the trees there at the time of Jesus. So, yes, this is what the garden would have looked like. The place where Jesus left Peter, James and John (a stones throw away) was just across the street. Inside the Church of All Nations we celebrated Mass on the altar just behind the stone on which Jesus sweated blood and where the angels ministered to him. This is where he faced a temptation like that of Adam and Eve and stood faithful - he crushed the head of Satan. Here on this spot... Amazing!

Overview:
There are two shrines to consider the Agony of Christ at the Garden of Gethsemane. The first is the cave called the Grotto of Betrayal next to the Tomb of the Blessed Mother. This is the cave where the eight apostles remained while Jesus, Peter, James and John went a “stone’s throw away” (Luke 21:42) to pray as well as the scene of Jesus’ arrest
The second is Garden of Gethsemane, an enclosed grove of olive trees and the Basilica of the Agony or Church of All Nations. A Byzantine church was built in the 4th century with beautiful mosaics but destroyed by the Persians in 614. The Crusaders built another church in 1170. The present church was rebuilt over the Byzantine church in 1925.

THE AGONY (Luke 22:39-53)
Then going out he went, as was his custom, to the Mount of Olives, and the disciples followed him. When he arrived at the place he said to them, "Pray that you may not undergo the test." After withdrawing about a stone's throw from them and kneeling, he prayed, saying, "Father, if you are willing, take this cup away from me; still, not my will but yours be done." (And to strengthen him an angel from heaven appeared to him. He was in such agony and he prayed so fervently that his sweat became like drops of blood falling on the ground.)

After Mass we headed for our Hotel, The Jerusalem Gate, our home for the rest of the trip. It is a Jewish section of the modern city so we encountered the celebration of the end of the Sabbath when we arrived on Saturday evening.

Welcome to Jerusalem

View of the Old City and ceremonial welcome.

Jericho

Entry into Jericho required that we leave our bus and tour guide and get a replacement for a few hours as we passed the check-point into the West Bank. Our first stop was the tree of Zaccheaus. It was not very impressive and the merchants hounded us. Nevertheless, it was a tree like this which Zaccheaus climbed to see Jesus and it was somewhere in this city where he turned his life over to God and followed Jesus.

Next we went to the restaurant for a large buffet meal. From the top of this restaurant we could view remains of the the old city of Jericho. Many of us also enjoyed a short ride on a camel.

Historical background:
JERICHO is some 7,000 years old, one of the oldest cities in the world. It is certainly the oldest in Israel. There are two sites or tels in the city. The ancient tel is tel-el-Sultan and the modern tel is the one that Herod built across the Wadi Kelt and west of the present modern Jericho. Jericho was a city built by nomads and was a fortified city by 7000B.C.E. One of the modern meanings given for Jericho is a “Place of fragrance”. Probably because that many of the perfumes used in the temple came from Jericho.